News & Articles

Upcoming Events

In the Garden this Month

Links & References

Speaker's Bureau

What is IPM?

Water Management

You can either purchase a soil test kit at many retail garden centers and do the testing yourself or you can send a soil sample to a testing laboratory. Soil test kits range in cost from $10 to $50 for multiple tests.

A Technology & Product Report from the American Society of Horticultural Science assessed the accuracy of commercially available soil test kits, as compared to test results from an analytical laboratory:
#1. La Motte Soil Test Kit (La Motte Co., Chesteron, MD) 94%
#2. Rapidtest® (Luster Leaf Products, Woodstock , IL ) 92%
#3. Quick Soiltest (Hanna, Woonsocket , RI ) 64%

Additional information on soil test kits can be found at http://horttech.ashspublications.org/cgi/content/abstract/17/3/358.
Testing laboratories charge for soil analysis. We suggest that you call the selected laboratory prior to submitting samples. Quite often samples must be taken, packaged, and sent in a particular manner in order to obtain the best possible diagnosis.

Soil testing laboratories in Southern California are:
1. Associated Labs, Orange (714-771-6900, www.associatedlabs.com);
2. PACE Turfgrass Research, Oceanside (760-272-9897, www.PACEturf.com);
3. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc., Orange (714-282-8777, www.soilandplantlaboratory.com);
4. Wallace Laboratories, El Segundo (800-473-3699, www.bettersoils.com ).

The following companies sell soil amendments in bulk:

Aguinaga Fertilizer
16355 Construction Circle West
Irvine, CA 92606
949-786-9558
Website: www.Aguinagagreen.com

Quality Mulch & Top Soil
15631 E. Lincoln
Orange, CA
714-637-8010

South Coast Supply
18851 Goldenwest Street
Huntington Beach, CA 92648
714-842-8866
Website: http://www.southcoastsupplyinc.com

Tierra Verde Ind
7892 Irvine Blvd
Irvine, CA
949-551-0363

Orange County Vector Control handles Red Imported Fire Ant (RIFA) problems for our county.  They suggest that you contact them rather than try to handle the situation yourself. 
Their website is http://www.ocvcd.org/index.php. 

On this home page you will see an area for the Red Imported Fire Ants  at the bottom of the screen.  Clicking on that will take you to an informational area complete with photos.  You may report the RIFA online - see 'Request Service Online' area.  Or, if you choose, see the contact phone numbers 714.971.2421 or 949.654.2421.

You can submit specimens of insects, mites, snails, and slugs to the Orange County Agricultural Commissioner’s office for identification. Please visit their web site for an explanation of their identification services: http://www.ocagcomm.com/ser_lab.asp

There is a form that needs to be filled out and sent with the specimen. You can download it from the above website (the link to the form is on that webpage). Fill out the form and submit the sample and the form in person or by mail to:

Agricultural Commissioner's Office
Orange County
222 E. Bristol Lane
Orange , CA   92865-2714

Additional Contact Information:
Telephone (714) 955-0100
Fax  (714) 921-2713

If you capture any suspect insects, place them into a zip-lock baggie and place into the freezer.  Once frozen, send it to the OC Agricultural Commissioner's office for positive identification. You can also deliver live insects (properly packaged) in person. Below is the information on how to package and send a specimen. Procedure for submitting insect, mite and mollusk specimens:

1. Specimens of insects, mites, snails and slugs will be identified if specimens are isolated in clean, clearly marked containers or adhering to fresh plant material. Specimens received in rotted condition or specimens requiring extensive processing to find suspected organisms will not be processed.
2. Dead, dry insects should be protected from mail handling by placing them in small boxes or dry vials (empty film canisters or pill bottles work well for this purpose).
3. Insects or mites attached or restricted to plant material are best submitted on a small portion of the affected plant placed in newspaper and placed in an open ended plastic bag before packaging for mailing.
4. Plant-associated mites should be placed in a vial in a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and submitted in person to the Agricultural Commissioner Office.
5. Live mollusks are best submitted in person to the Agricultural Commissioner’s Office in small boxes or ventilated glass jars.

Procedure for submitting plant disease or plant specimens for identification:

1. The sample should be as fresh and complete as possible with examples of roots, stem and or leaves depending on the perceived symptoms. When this is not possible, as with trees or a lawn, a picture can be helpful.
2. The sample should be representative of the symptoms, in the diseased or dying stage but not completely dead. Once a plant is dead, microorganisms that decay organic matter start to grow, making it difficult to diagnose what originally caused the plant to die.
3. When a sample consists of only a few leaves, grass clippings, or pieces of bark, it is difficult to make a proper diagnosis.
4. For a plant identification you should submit along with the leaves and stems, flowers and or fruit whenever possible. These should not be placed in plastic since this runs the risk of becoming cooked or decomposed beyond recognition.

I understand that your myoporum is infested with thrips. This is a widespread problem. Thrips have few predators and there is a lot of myoporum to support them, so damage is extensive.

This is a new genus of Australian Phlaeothripidae, Klambothrips, which is a pest on the leaves of prostrate and upright myoporum shrubs in California .

Currently, there are no effective biological control agents for this pest, although we often find minute pirate bugs feeding on them. Most of the damage occurs on the spring growth flush, with the late summer-fall growth flush being less affected (probably due to thrips not doing well under hot summer, low humidity conditions).

Insecticide treatment to protect the spring flush with products containing Imidacloprid (systemic insecticide sold by Bayer) gave best results in a University test. Conserve (spinosad) also gave some control, but must be applied several times to protect new growth. Once leaves are fully expanded, thrips cannot do much damage. 

If you are left with holes in your landscape, you may want to consider a secondary groundcover such as, Coyote Bush (Baccharis),  “Yankee Point” Ceanothus, or one of the low growing manzanitas. Ask a better nursery’s Certified Nursery pro for advice they can tell you “what works” in your area.

The UCCE Master Gardeners of Orange County do not have adequate staff at the present time to provide assistance with establishing or maintaining a community garden. You may find much of the information you seek by visiting the following link and exploring its list of “Online Resources.”

http://www.lepowsky.com/schoolgardens/

Within the links specified above is a guide to starting a community garden that you may find helpful:

http://celosangeles.ucdavis.edu/garden/articles/startup_guide.html

Master Gardener hotlines/helplines for other counties close to Orange County can be found at

http://camastergardeners.ucdavis.edu/California_Counties_MG_Websites/

Contact(s) for these counties are listed below for your convenience.

COUNTY PHONE HOTLINE and EMAIL HOTLINE
Los Angeles: (323) 260-3238 (mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu)
Riverside (951) 683-6491 X0
San Diego: (858) 694-2860 (help@mastergardenerssandiego.org)
Ventura: (805) 645-1455 (mgventura@ucdavis.edu)
Fresno: (559) 456-7563 (mgfresno@ucdavis.edu )
Kings: (559) 582-3211 X2736
Tulare: (559) 685-3309 X225 or X226

Aphids begin to show up in Southern California during the early spring, and in most areas they cease to be a serious problem after summer temperatures reach the nineties. Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects with long slender mouth parts which they use to pierce stems and leaves and suck out plant fluids. As they suck, they exude a sweet sticky substance known as honeydew, which is attractive to ants. Aphids may be green, yellow, reddish or black and are typically 1/8 inch or less in size, with pear- shaped bodies, long legs and antennae. Aphids give birth asexually to live young who resemble miniature adults and can multiply rapidly.

Limited numbers of aphids are not damaging to gardens, and a small number are actually a good thing, because they provide beneficial insects with a food source. A large population, however, may cause curling or yellowing of leaves, stunting of growth and damage to leaf and flower buds. A few species can cause galls (swellings of plant tissues within which the insect lives) or other distortions in growth. Aphids may also transmit viruses that cause plant diseases.

Often the honeydew that aphids create as they feed is more of a nuisance than anything else. This honeydew, which settles on plant leaves and underlying surfaces, such as walkways, is sticky and an airborne sooty black fungi often turns the sticky surfaces black. The honeydew also attracts ants.

There are a number of steps that may be taken to reduce the likelihood of aphid populations expanding to harmful levels in the garden. Consider the following:
* When selecting nursery plants, inspect the top and bottom of foliage for aphids and remove any pests found.
* Remove any build-up of weeds in the garden, which can harbor aphids.
* Encourage the presence of aphid predators--such as ladybeetles and lacewings--with plants that have nectar producing flowers, such as fennel, dill, lemon balm, nasturtium, scented gladiolus, lantana, parsley, honeysuckle and native plants. In addition to encouraging and conserving existing populations of aphid predators in the garden, it is also possible to introduce commercially available ladybeetles and lacewing eggs or larva.
Ladybeetles and their larvae are voracious aphid predators, but unfortunately upon release, they may not stay in your garden long enough to do any good.
Before releasing them, it is recommended that you spray them with sugar water, as purchased ladybeetles are often thirsty and hungry and more likely to scatter. It is also helpful to wet the plants and soil if the weather is dry. It is best to release them in the late evening on the ground or on lower branches of plants, as a climb seems to discourage flight. You can also discourage dispersal by chilling them for an hour or two in the refrigerator before release. Lacewings are generally purchased as larvae or eggs and they can be sprinkled onto dry aphid-infested foliage.
* Eliminating ants will make it easier for beneficial insects to control aphids. Trim trees and shrubs so that the only pathway ants may follow to foliage is the main stem. If a plant has a sturdy stem or trunk, then a sticky material such as Tanglefoot may be used as a barrier to the ants. When using sticky barriers, do not apply them directly to the bark of young or thin-barked trees or shrubs or to heavily pruned trees, as the sticky material may be toxic to the plants. Wrap trunks with fabric tree wrap and apply the sticky material to the wrap. Do not leave on indefinitely, as the wrapping material may cause damage as the plant grows.
* One of the easiest methods of controlling aphids is to wash them off with a strong spray of water. This also reduces the honeydew on foliage, and can be done on a daily basis, if necessary. Other options are to spray foliage with insecticidal soap or a fine horticultural oil spray. Or you can ask your local California Certified Nursery Professional (CCN Pro) for a recommendation. Do not use a soap or oil spray on any plant that is water- stressed or when the temperature is above ninety degrees.
* Because aphids are drawn to plant tissue with a high nitrogen content, it's also important not to overfertilize.

What many people call "killer bees," are actually Africanized honey bees (AHB). They were first sighted in Orange County in March, 1999. While they can be dangerous, they aren't exactly a menace. Fear of these bees should not prevent you from gardening or enjoying other outdoor activities.

According to Nick Nisson, the Orange County entomologist with the California State Agricultural Commission, all emergency services report serious bee stinging incidents to the Agricultural Commission. Thus far, none have been reported in Orange County. In fact, since AHBs first migrated across the Mexican border into the United States in 1990, less than ten deaths have been attributed to the AHB. So the risk of a serious bee attack is similar to the risk of being attacked by a bear, a shark or a mountain lion. Your best course of action is to learn about the habits of these bees and take reasonable precautions.

Until the arrival of the AHBs, the bee commonly encountered in Orange County was the domesticated European Honey Bee (EHB), which was bred for gentleness and good honey production. The EHB also plays an important role in pollinating garden plants and commercial crops.

AHBs were introduced to South America during the 1950s in the hope that they would adopt more readily than EHBs to warm tropical climates in the Americas. Unfortunately, AHBs are wild by nature, more easily upset than EHBs, and did not take to domestication. Nevertheless, in many ways they are very similar to EHBs. They cannot be told apart based upon appearance, and can be distinguished from EHBs only in the laboratory. Although there are important differences between the behavior of AHBs and EHBs, they are quite similar in many ways. An understanding of the habits common to both bees, and the habits unique to AHBs will help prevent stinging by either type of bee.

When bees are gathering pollen or nectar, they do not have time to bother people. There is little risk of being stung by these bees unless they are trapped or harmed in some way. Bees are often attracted to evaporative water coolers or to standing water in pets' dishes, birdbaths, or ponds, and may be attracted in large numbers. These bees, like foraging bees, are not likely to be aggressive unless harmed. Scent does attract bees, though, so if you do not want the close companionship of curious bees, it is best to avoid floral or citrus aftershave and perfume. The company of bees may also be discouraged by wearing light-colored clothing in the garden and on outings. Bees are more likely to attack dark clothing, dark hair, and dark skin.

In the spring and sometimes in the fall it is normal for one-half of the working force of a bee colony, and a queen, to separate from the mother colony and fly out (swarm) to search for a new home. Both AHBs and EHBs engage in this activity, although AHBs swarm more frequently than EHBs. Since they have no young bees to protect, swarming bees of both types tend to be mild mannered and are not likely to be a threat unless they are molested by rock throwing or similar activity. Usually a swarm will move on in a day or two.

Once bees establish colonies, they will defend them. The difference between EHBs and AHBs, is that AHBs defend a larger area around their nests, pursue intruders sooner and in larger numbers, and carry the chase further. AHBs may feel threatened by people fifty feet or more from their nests and they are sensitive to the vibrations of power equipment 100 feet or more from their nests. In fact serious stinging incidents often arise from the use of power equipment, such as mowers, weed-eaters, or chain-saws near colonies of AHBs. EHBs that become agitated will pursue an intruder as far as the length of one-half of a football field. AHBs will continue the pursuit even further, for one- quarter mile or more. As with EHBs, each bee can only sting once, and the sting of an AHB is no more potent than that of an EHB, but the aggressiveness of the AHB, their persistence, and the number of bees that join in attacks makes then more dangerous.

Unlike EHBs, AHBs establish colonies in small cavities and protected areas that would not ordinarily be used by EHBs, so their nests may be encountered in unexpected places. Colonies have been found in holes in trees, the space between the walls or buildings, underneath foundations, in sheds, in drain pipes, water meter valve boxes, abandoned appliances, holes in the ground, piles of junk, flower pots stored upside down, piles of rocks, underneath picnic tables and even in old tires. In wild areas there may be as many as ten to twenty colonies per square mile.

To avoid unpleasant encounters with AHBs, prevent the establishment of colonies near your house or garden. Fill in cracks and crevices around your house with steel wool or caulk. Cover openings greater than 1/8 inch in walls, and chimneys by installing 1/8 inch screen. Also cover drain pipe openings with screen. Remove junk, rock piles and wood piles. Fill holes in the ground and in water meter valve boxes. Secure doors to outside utility closets and sheds.

Be on the lookout for unusual bee signs. Watch for bees coming and going from a crack or a hole, and listen for a loud buzzing sound that may indicate the presence of a colony. Always examine areas where you plan to use power equipment, and inspect the area around campsites and picnic tables before children play. Stay aware of your environment when hiking.

Often, but not always, serious stinging incidents start with provocation such as a stone tossed at a colony, the vibration of power equipment, attempts to spray bees with the hose or an aerosol insecticide, or to douse them with chemicals. Avoid these behaviors, teach your children to avoid them, and when hiking, keep pets on a leash so they do not accidentally come upon a bee colony.

If you discover a bee swarm, or believe you have discovered a colony, the best advice is to stay away from it. According to entomologist Nisson, there are no public agencies in Orange County that remove bee swarms or colonies from private property. So, if you require bee removal you'll need to contact a commercial beekeeper or pest control company to arrange for its removal. In other counties, public assistance may be available; contact your local vector control district. Los Angeles county has an Africanized Honeybee emergency line at 1-800-233-9279.

What should you do if, in spite of your efforts, you do encounter angry bees? Bees frequently engage in defensive behavior before commencing an attack. So if groups of bees begin to fly at your face or buzz around your head, this is a sign that you are in danger. Do not further excite the bees by swatting at them; do not try to gather up your possessions; do not try to fool the bees by standing still. Withdraw immediately!

If bees begin stinging, flee, and remember that if shelter cannot be found, it may be necessary to continue for one quarter mile or more before the bees disengage. Also, remember that any person or animal who is not capable of sustained rapid movement is at serious risk once an attack begins. If you see someone else being attacked, call 911 immediately.

If attacked, don't flail at the bees. You will only leave yourself unprotected and further anger the bees. Cover the head and eyes with anything available, and if nothing is available, use your arms and hands to protect them. Stings to the chest, back, stomach, arms and hands are less serious than stings to the face and head. Try to get indoors as quickly as possible. If you are far from shelter and can do so, a run through brush may confuse and slow bees. Jumping into water is not recommended because AHBs will wait in the area for a considerable time.

If you are stung, evaluate the situation once you are in a safe place. The care for treatment of stings by AHBs is the same as care for stings by EHBs and wasps. When removing stingers, speed is most important. Try to avoid using tweezers or fingers to pull-out stingers as this may squeeze more venom into your wounds. Bee stingers should be removed by scraping sideways using fingernails, the edge of a credit card, or a knife. However, if none of these items are readily available, pulling them out quickly is more important than how you do it. Once stingers are removed, wash the stung area and apply ice packs to reduce swelling.

Ordinarily healthy people who are not allergic to bee stings are not killed by bee stings unless they have been stung hundreds of times. Elderly people and children are more at risk and may die from fewer than one hundred stings. If you have been stung fifteen times or more, know you are allergic to bee stings, or if you are having symptoms such as shortness of breath, swelling of the tongue, hives or dizziness, call 911, or seek medical attention immediately. In the case of symptoms described, unconsciousness may occur within twenty minutes.

Hopefully, with this information you will have the confidence to continue enjoying the outdoors and the drowsy humming of bees on summer afternoons.